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Mount Blanc

rock climbing
sport climbing in:
Italy - Arco & Sarca Valley
Germany - Frankenjura

multi-pitch climbing:
italy – dolomites
Italy - Arco & Sarca Valley
Austria - Tirol, Salzburg

ice climbing
Austria - Tirol, Salzburg

off-piste Austria
backcountry skiing:
Haute Route (France-Switzerland)

Thanks to its formidable North Wall, the Eiger (Ogre) is a world-famous summit and one of the alpine ‘big three’ alongside the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. Forming the left edge of the North Face, the Mittellegi Ridge rises in imposing steps and towers to a knife-edge snow crest leading to the summit. More technical than the Matterhorn even with sections of fixed rope, it was the last of the great Oberland ridges to be climbed (1921).

Difficulty: ADVANCED
The most popular routes to the summit are via the South Ridge or Mittellegi Ridge – these are technical routes graded VDiff/Severe and above (US 5.4-5.5) and only suitable for competent climbers with good fitness. An alternative route via the Mittellegi Integrali is one of the finest climbs in the Alps with a grading of HVS (US 5.8).
The Eiger ascent is only suitable for climbers with previous alpine experience including use of ice-axe and crampons.


With stronger rock climbers who take a 5-day block of 1:1 guiding for the Eiger, we are prepared to climb the peak via the Mittellegi Ridge. The 'Integrale' is one of the longest and finest expeditions of its standard in the Alps, involving around 8000ft of ascent from the tiny hamlet of Alpiglen to the summit over 3 days. We can attempt this with people who are confident following Hard Very Severe (American 5.8, alpine grade V+) on rock. The most technical sections of this are climbed in rock shoes.

    5 days climb programme
The aim of this programme is to enjoy a week of fantastic alpine mountaineering around the Eiger and to make a successful and safe ascent (and descent!) of the mountain. Our standard programme is 5 days with acclimatization and preparation - at a maximum guide ratio of 1:2.
    Dates & Duration
The season for climbing the Eiger is from mid-July until augoust. We only guide private groups, so dates are available on request.
We find that this programme works well but we have occasionally had groups who felt that a 6 or 7 day programme might have suited them better, allowing more time for preparation and also additional time in case of adverse weather. An extension to the trip will increase the cost. Contact our office for further details.

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